September Newsletter


Bruce is planning an advance table saw class where he will teach how to make raised panels box joints etc.

One Special Christmas is fast approaching. We encourage our members to make and donate “something” which is auctioned off to raise money for a local family. The money is then used for various items such as electronics/school laptops and supplies.

The Christmas Party is set for December 18 at Brixx Restaurant uptown (225 East 6th St). Free parking is next to the restaurant. Just save your ticket and have it validated inside.

It was a busy month for the Club. We had exhibition booths at both Matthews Alive and Festival in the Park events. Our participation serves as a membership drive and to promote woodworking. The Club owes many thanks to the people who donated their weekend time as demonstrators or greeters. We expect to acquire many news members due their efforts of the volunteers. When you see a new face in the shop shake their hand and welcome them to the Club. Make them feel at home.

Matthews Alive

Mike Smith Showed kids the proper use of the Japanese Pull Saw. He made his T-puzzle and challenged the kids to assemble it. After they were frustrated he gave them a hint.

There are videos on the website on how to make both his Box and T-puzzles

Fred Miller did double Duty at Matthews Alive. He demonstrated how to make hand-cut dovetails (above) and explained the purpose and use of the Shaving Saw Horse.

2X4 Contest

Show & Tell

Mike Smith with mesquite clock
For show and tell Mike showed off his clock made with mesquite wood. Because the wood is rated at 2345 on the Janka Hardness scale it is difficult to work.  The tar from the wood also has many medicinal uses.

In addition to the contest Mike Smith showed off his clock made of mesquite wood. Since mesquite wood is 2345 on the Janka Hardness scale (twice as hard as oak) it is difficult to work. On a side note the black tar of the wood, when diluted with water has many medicinal uses such as eye wash, antiseptic for open wounds, chapped lips and as a sun burn lotion.

2X4 contest
Angled dovetail box

Bruce also described how to make the angled dovetails on his box. He also spoke on the differences between dye and stain. Dye is absorbed into the wood fibers. It gives a more consistent color but not recommended for wood food utensils. Stain is actually made of particles that stay in the grain. Color can be built up with each layer and is most effective with open grain woods. One reason to use a stain or dye is to make one type of wood look like another.

Festival in the Park

George Thomas, Christian Bettendorf, and John Arnaud, gave demonstrations at the Club’s booth at Festival in the Park.

While bands played in the Amphitheater at the Festival, George Thomas displayed and spoke about making a guitar at our booth.

Bob Fields gave a demonstration on how to use this Shaving Horse and draw knife. After making a doorstop, he gave them away as souvenirs of the Festival

Hand Made Guitar
George Thomas shows off his award-winning handmade guitar. He remarked it takes about 328 hours to make one
Scroll Work
Christian Bettendorf shows off his scroll saw work
John Arnaud
John Arnaud
Shaving Horse
Shaving Horse

In the Shop

Fred Miller showing a new member (Nifemi Ogunro) how to use a lathe. In no time she was on her own making small bowl type containers.

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Due to the limited number of repair shops in the area, Doug Rink is making a repair on his planner


Show & Tell (August 2018)



John Arnaud displayed a box he made using hand cut dovetails for the joinery. He’ll also be demonstrating his techniques         at Festival in the Park.


Tom Wills showed off a stool (above) he made of chestnut wood and used pocket screws for the joinery. He next displayed a pencil box he made on a lathe.







             Kelly Rose showed off her design she uses for woodcarving.


Stan Howell discussed his pedestal he made for his wife.


Phil DuBerry talked about his turned salt and peppershakers


Do people say you look “fuzzy?” It’s not because of your 5 o’clock shadow, it because the auto focus on my camera isn’t fast enough as the speakers talk and move. I request the show and tell people to give Jim Dunn, Pete Stoffle or Mark Boyer beforehand so we can get a good clean photo of your item for the newsletter and Club websites.

The Club has a Face Book page set up by Peter Stoffle and located here:

The Club also has a You Tube Channel set up my Mark Boyer and located here:

Check them out and don’t forget to “Like” them and share them with your friends.


How to Flatten Wood by Mike Smith


Mike Smith gave a presentation on how to flatten a board.

First when selecting wood look at the end grain

The left shows how a “flat sawn” log is cut. The end grain on the board would be in a circular pattern. As the wood dries the grain would flatten out which can lead to cracking and warping.
The right photo shows a “quarter sawn log.”  The log is cut so the end grain is straighter which makes the board more stable and less prawn to warping and cracking.

Mike discussed several ways to flatten a warped or cupped board.
First, acclimate the wood to the local environment/temperature. Leave it in your shop for a few days so to help eliminate movement and cracking.

One way to flatten a “cupped board” is to run it through a joiner (with the grain) with the cupped face down until that face is flat. Next run it through the planner

To create a straight side you could again use a joiner. You could also attach your board to a known straight edge as shown here then run it over your table saw.

If you have, a board that is warped/twisted places it on a sled and shim it so it doesn’t move. Starting with the high end, feed it through your planner taking SMALL bites (do both sides).

Another way is to make a box and set the wood inside. Next, mount your router on a stiff board so it rests on the side of the box. Use a flat bottom router bit protruding through the board and move the router along the sides and taking small bites off the warped wood.
Note: The bigger the router bit the slower the speed needs to be (see manufacturer manual).


Hart Square Day (27 October 2018)

Since 1986, as the first touches of autumn fleck Hog Hill on the fourth Saturday in October, Hart Square bustles with over three hundred knowledgeable artisans and docents demonstrating and sharing the craftsmanship and subsistence of Carolina’s pioneers. To enter the village on festival day is to enter the early 1800s. Here, visitors will witness everything from flax making, cotton baling, and tinsmithing to apple butter making and the sweet sounds of old time music. The Village is located outside Hickory. Tickets are available for $45 through either the Catawba County Museum of History (828-465-0383) or contact Bob Fields.

Drop off display items

The Club is looking for items to display in the upcoming Matthews Alive (Aug 31 to Sept 3) and Festival in the Park (Sept 21 to 23) Fairs. It a chance to show off your woodworking skills so let’s fill up the room. You can bring more than one item. Bruce will be at the Shop on Monday (Aug 27) if you want to drop off items or drop them off the day of the event. Don’t forget to put your name on the item so it can be returned.

As always, we are looking for volunteers to help.

Safety Glasses updated

Fred Miller mentioned at the August meeting you could order OSHA approved eyeglasses and get a good discount through AARP. It’s also recommended to purchase the side shields.

If you wear prescription glasses, you can get the glasses made at Walmart’s optical store.  They offer OSHA-approved safety lenses in several different frames (you choose), and the AARP discount can be applied if you provide your AARP account number.

July 2018 Guest Speaker: Harold Dotson

The guest speaker for July (2018) was Harold Dotson.  Harold started out as a cabinet and furniture maker from Pickens, South Carolina.  He now specializes in custom rocking chairs.

Harold starts his chairs from a selection of 8/4 wood.  It leaves a lot of waste, but in the end he will use what’s left over for other projects or as firewood.  One very noticeable trait of Harold’s chairs is that he laminates the rockers with several thin strips of wood in a form. He uses epoxy on the leg and seat joints to prevent “creep”.  It forms a very sold and strong joint and he’s found it to be better than wood glue.

The slats of the chair are made on a bandsaw and are designed to make the chair more comfortable.  In fact, all of his designs are derived from 30 years of experimenting to find what works and what doesn’t.  Harold started with a basic design from a magazine back in the 1980s and progressed from there.

Harold shared with us the secret to a good rocking chair.

The chair becomes an extension of the person sitting in it.  A custom piece will become a family heirloom such as “Grandma’s chair or Auntie’s chair.”  The chair also has to have the correct tilt so it “invites you” to sit it. Lastly it has to “feel good” to the person.

Harold has one on one classes showing how to make the chair. The class includes the wood and allows you to keep the forms if you want to make more on your own.

Band Saw Tune-up & Repair

Presentation By: Bruce Bogust

If you are a new member, or thinking about buying a new band saw the things to consider are: the vertical height in which the saw guides can be raised, the distance between the blade and the stand (called throat clearance), what material the wheels are made of and type of blade guides.  The saw blade needs weight to move the blade so steel or cast iron wheels are superior to the aluminum wheels. Roller bearing guides are better than the solid blocks.


Club President Bruce Bogust repaired the shop band saw. The following is a guide in case your band saw wheel bearings are making a funny noise (worn) or if the rubber on the wheels is deteriorating and needs to be replaced.

First, many of the parts are specific to top and bottom wheels so take a photograph of your machine as a guide to reinstall the parts in their proper place.

Peel off the old rubber tire of the wheels. To install the new rubber wheel (also called a tire) work the rubber back on with the aid of a screwdriver. Sometimes heating the rubber SLIGHTLY with a halogen light will aid in the installation.

Again, the pulleys and bearings on the machine are sometimes specific so ensure you note how they are initially installed on the machine. Remove the nuts that hold on the wheels and bearings.

One can purchase the manufacturers bearings or order generic bearings (often at a lesser price) from companies such as McMaster-Carr.

You will need three measurements if purchasing generic bearings. Bruce is getting ready to measure outside diameter, the inside diameter of the hole and the width of the bearing (shown on the right). If you get a “funny” number upon your measurement, it is probably a metric size.

If installing the bearing on a shaft or axle first heat the bearing with a lamp (Bruce used a halogen lamp) Place some light oil on the shaft. Using a pipe that is SMALLER than the diameter so you do not damage the bearing, tape the new bearing onto the shaft

When installing bearings in a race, cool the bearing to aid in the installation. You may use a WOOD DOWEL to help tap it into place.

Spin the wheels by hand to ensure they are free to move and are balanced. The previous owner drilled holes in the wheels as seen here to balance them

Check to see if the pulley is keyed then Install it properly. Check to ensure the belt runs straight.

Assuming the floor is level and flat use a large level to determine if both wheels are straight (called co-planning). The level should touch the top and bottom of both wheels at the same time. If not a washer, smaller than the bearing can be used to make corrections.

Install the blade so the teeth point down (yes… people have done it backwards).

Adjust the tension of the blade using the scale on the side of the machine. Another way is the blade should “ring” when plucked.

Bandsaw-10Use a credit card or dollar bill to adjust the distance between the blade and roller guide or block guide. The roller guides are superior to a guide block. (Potentially your machine could be retro fitted). In addition, “cool blocks” are available from Woodcraft if to help keep your blade friction to a minimum.

The pin at the end of the table keeps both halves level. Run a straight edge across the it. If you hear, a “click” (meaning they are not level with the pin installed) either use a stone to level it or take it to a local repair shop.

Use a square to check the table is perpendicular to the table (most table adjustments are under it). From the Wood Show they cut half way through a piece of wood, turned the machine off, then turn the piece of wood upside down and attempted to slide it on the back of the blade. If it did not smoothly go into place, something was not straight.

Table adjustments are at the back of the table and set at the factory so they should not need any adjustment.

Use a square and draw a straight line on a piece of wood. Cut along the line with the assistance of the fence. The line and cut should agree. If not follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to square your fence. Some newer fences have adjustments on the fence its self.

Turn the machine on and place a stone on the BACK EDGES of the blade to round them off a bit. This provides for a smoother cut as the wood passes the blade.